5/24/2012

Bean By Bean: A Cookbook


I have been a fan of Crescent Dragonwagon's cookbooks since her "Passionate Vegetarian" became my bible through a decade of personal and culinary transformation into a vegetarian. Bean by Bean is a valuable addition to ANY recipe book collection just because of the well-researched, simple, absolutely delicious recipes. It's not all vegetarian, by the way, Crescent shares some meat adding possibilities and some Vegan options, but mostly she's a vegetarian kind of cook. Bean by Bean is also a culinary education about legumes, lessons that all plant-based diet aspirers (we should all be that, ahem) will appreciate and enjoy. Moreso and to utter delight, it is written in the honest, passionate, life-embracing voice of Crescent Dragonwagon. She knows, she cares, she'll whip you into a frenzy of loving BEANS! You will undoubtedly question how it is you became all "in a lather" over beans, so prepare yourself, lol. Crescent is the ultimate Girlfriend of all of us who love cooking. SO much more Oprah than Martha, Crescent is your friend here as well as your teacher. She's the real deal, she hasn't been invented by a cable TV mogul, she has that Sark kind of approachability and empathy, what you see and what you get is trustworthy, real, experienced, improved, shared. All this because she is not only wonderful, she's a wonderful writer. I am face down in my copy of Bean by Bean, have sent it to 3 young people I know who are taking charge of their diets by embracing Vegetarian and Vegan lifestyles. Here's the magic: In Bean by Bean you learn that you can eat the greatest comforting food on earth AS you save the earth. Bean by Bean is, more than anything else, for those of us who love delicious comfort food, care about healthy eating, and care about the earth and the animals. 

- Rachel Lamb, Amazon.com

Love this compilation of recipes, background, information and anecdotes written in Dragonwagon's familiar voice: honest, sincere, and passionate, with gentle doses of her humor. I'll spend hours with this book that includes such a great variety - from the Senate's Navy Bean Soup to one similar to my grandmother's Pasta e Fagioli - covering scores of bean types and a wide range of styles (Greek, Thai, American, French, Indian, etc.) Peas and lentils included, too. Tonight I'm tossing together Sugar Snap Pea, Orange and Spinach Salad. Tomorrow Black Bean Soup. Whether you're new or old to bean-knowledge, I think you'll find something enticing here - if you like beans, that is. Kudos to Crescent Dragonwagon (great name!) for this yum volume. 

- lakeside, Amazon.com

If I were a bean, I would feel lucky to be planted in Crescent's garden, and perhaps even luckier when, at just the right moment, I was picked and taken into her kitchen to be handled with care, appreciation, and love and ultimately transformed into an appetizing and sustaining meal--after all, legumes have the most concentrated amount of plant-based protein around. Or perhaps I will be left to dry in my pod, then shucked, and stored in the pantry until one winter's day when I end up in a simmering pot of chili. Then again, once dried, I might be plopped in the ground the following spring, to start the cycle all over again. This is the story of the bean told in Crescent's warm, inviting, and conversational style, a conversation in which you the reader are addressed directly with such sweet terms of endearment as "baby" and "angel." (Crescent, by the way, developed her conversational style long before our current age of blogging, in which a direct, conversational style is now commonplace.)

This book is a makeover of the author's first cookbook, The Bean Book, published in 1972. And yet it is so much more than that. It represents thirty years of digging deep into beans, their history, their cultural meaning, their literary references, and deeper yet into the endless ways to prepare them in the kitchen and enjoy them at the table. In Bean by Bean, you will learn a slew of practical bean cooking and eating tips: such as, how to check if your bowl of dried beans has in fact soaked long enough (you split one open; it should be the same color all the way through); how to "de-gas" your beans (yes, Crescent deals with the issue of flatulence head-on, which, it has been proven, generally becomes less and less of a problem if you incrementally eat beans more and more); and how to get the complete dietary protein your body needs from beans (simply pair them with grains).

On a very fundamental level, you will learn the three basic classifications of beans: fresh, or "green," beans, in which the entire bean is eaten, pod and all; dried; and those lesser-known and too rare (especially outside the South) in-between bean known as shell beans or shellies. Like their more mature, dried counterparts, the shell beans are shelled, or shucked, and the pod discarded, but the beans may be prepared similarly to fresh beans (they take a little longer to cook than fresh, but not much longer). After discovering the pleasure of eating shell beans this past summer while visiting a friend in Alabama, I appreciate the author's passion for them. Crescent's tip for preparing fresh and shell beans together in the same pot is something I'm dying to try, once they are in season again.

In the meantime, a green curry of tofu and green vegetables awaits, as does Crescent's recipe for the irresistible Gotcha-Hotcha Sweet-Smoky Cocktail Peanuts, a reminder, by their inclusion in Bean by Bean, that peanuts are, after all, a legume. 


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